Lorenzo Serafini sees himself as a new romantic, yet there’s a streak of rebelliousness underneath his gentle approach. The collections he designs for Philosophy may look sweet and über-feminine at first glance, but at closer inspection there’s a sexy feel underneath all those frills and ruffles. You don’t have queen of punk Siouxsie Sioux plastered in all her witchy glory on your pre-fall mood board if you’re not a little insubordinate yourself.
Grittier than usual, Serafini’s pre-fall is underpinned by ideas of individuality and idiosyncrasy, which are pushing him to explore more complex identities. “Personal style is so homogeneous today,” he said at a studio appointment. “Individuality in fashion is somehow succumbing to safer, more predictable, and mainstream choices. It seems that the courage to be different isn’t there.”
Serafini’s tougher turn looks appealing and of the moment. Nocturnal and seductive, while keeping a feel of ease, the collection offers plenty of individual pieces “to help women developing a more personal style,” daring to go a little off-piste, and venturing into eclectic territory.
Playing on contrasts is alway a sure bet to give collections character. Here, lysergic prints of cats on bodysuits and secondskin catsuits were worn under cozy sweats, which alternated with wispy debutante dresses in point d’esprit. A frilly white ruffled blouse tucked into high-waisted pants sits alongside an emerald green zebra-printed midi dress, tight-fitted and stretchy. On the same note, a quite naughty-looking black minidress with an ‘80s feel was juxtaposed with an oversized hand knitted jacquard sweater, soft and enveloping.
Romance running counter to flamboyance—Serafini seems unafraid of challenging himself, giving Philosophy a confident direction, compelling and cool.
