A review appointment with Lee Mathews can quickly turn into a philosophical debate. The designer has spent much of Australia’s lockdowns questioning everything—not just fashion. Over a Zoom call from her home in the early hours of the morning, Mathews was deep in thought about how to solve the education crisis around the world, how to promote artistry and traditional skills, and how the political and social systems in place post-COVID no longer work as we move into a new era of personal independence.
Closer to home, she designed her pre-fall collection with her team in mind. How, she wondered, can she stimulate and inspire her young staffers, who are dejected and mentally worn down by the pandemic? Mathews doesn’t have the answer just yet, but her pre-fall collection is a roundup of unfussy, wearable, and kind-of-sexy pieces that allow a woman’s wardrobe to be uncomplicated. “There is no inspiration. No inspiration press statement,” she said. “That just doesn’t make sense anymore. I want to make good things that women can love and wear for a long time.” A black scoop-neck tunic with button-up sides will do the job, as will a houndstooth robe coat and collaged silk dress in a floral-stripe combo.