Johanna Ortiz has a knack for making every garment and accessory feel like an occasion piece. If you want big, bold, colorful designs, you go to her. Pre-fall 2022 is no exception—it’s just a little bit more complicated. Past collections by Ortiz focus on ruffles and puffs to emphasize the opulent feeling of dressing up, but pre-fall does not. As Ortiz explained over Zoom from her atelier in Cali, Colombia, she wanted to honor the shape of the human body with sleek knotted details and elegant drapery.
As explained in the collection notes, the draped designs are inspired by Greco-Roman dresses from antiquity, Madeleine Vionnet’s fluid garments from the early 20th century, and Indian saris (Ortiz says that her trip to the country as a recent grad was when she decided to become a designer, and is “always in the back of my mind”). Many pieces do look as if they were twisted onto the body, from a lavender crop-top to a kelly green mini dress with a train hanging from one side. Even an elegant white blouse—the kind of garment you could imagine wearing to work—features a twisted neckline and small pleats down the front. The prints of the season are Ikats, one small-scale and one large. Something for everyone.
Although those are all rendered in soft cotton, silk, or viscose, texture plays a big role in this season’s story. Ortiz partnered with the Argentinian brand Rocio G. on a series of leather accessories and tops. Each of the pieces embroidered with cowrie shells is the result of this partnership, as are some of the woven leather bags. They’re visually impressive, and almost challenge the wearer to pair them with something equally bold, like one of the large-scale Ikat skirts. But the beauties of the season are the red garments that lead the pack of vibrant colors. As long-sleeve wrap dresses or short minis, these capture the ease and sophistication of the season better than any other look. You could easily wear one exploring some far-flung city center or out dancing at a fabulous party: Two occasions the Johanna Ortiz customer is surely well-acquainted with.
