Because the company is in transition (newly appointed CEO Marco Gobbetti of Celine and Burberry will start his tenure in January), Salvatore Ferragamo’s pre-fall was carried out by the label’s design team along the lines established in its spring show. Built around a collage of references spanning sleek ’60s elegance to Sam Haskins’s images of the Amalfi Coast, the collection was a concise rendition of Ferragamo’s style touchstones.
The silhouette was kept sartorial, with sporty undertones adding a dynamic edge; classic urban staples for men and women were reworked to convey a youthful, attenuated formality, which was also expressed in the group shots in the look book. Anoraks, light leather bombers, city coats, and suits were designed with versatility in mind, for easy transitioning from summer to winter or from day to evening.
A few decorative suggestions were added for richness, albeit of the restrained variety. A palm motif, designed by artist Julien Colombier, was printed on swimwear, a caftan, and a tailored tracksuit. It was also subtly rendered in midnight blue jacquard on a men’s tuxedo. A pair of identical rainbow knit mohair sweaters counted as a genderless proposition; and elegant scarf dressing, a Ferragamo signature, was represented by a low-waist, square-cut skirt with asymmetrical pointy hems, inspired by a vintage poncho.
Although in a state of flux, the label remains committed to sustainable practices. Nylons are recycled, cottons are certified organic, and leather is chrome-free. Silk leftovers have been regenerated into padding for quilted piuminos; rubber is likewise regenerated and biodegradable, and here was transformed into a chic pair of Palinuro moccasins in a bright shade of Yves Klein Blue, featuring the house’s Gancio buckle.
