“It’s really about this new self-expression and the rejection of traditional codes of dress,” said Karl Templer at Ports 1961 this morning. “Younger people now, they see things through different filters and it adds up to a new way of dressing.” We’ve been hearing a lot about these young people this season. They’re driving the shift toward shorter lengths and corset dressing. Templer addressed both in his new collection, styling them the way the kids do. Take the collection’s opening look—the fitted jacket leaned Victorian but the car wash mini would’ve sent those Victorians to the fainting couch. Add lace-up platform boots and you have the vibe of the moment: a look-at-me irreverence.
As sensitive as Templer is to changing trends, Ports 1961 is a wardrobing collection, a resource for an ace sweater or a statement coat. The former took the shape of graphic marinière knits with fringes (the dress version was especially cool) and Arans built up with undulations of ruffles. Templer gave puffer jackets a boost with frogging closures, and a duffle coat some verve with curly shearling sleeves and lining. And because the target demographic is global young people, there were quite a few party dresses. The two in particular that synthesized the playful spirit Templer was aiming for layered lace teddy slips with sequined busts over understated ribbed knits.
