Ferragamo is in transition towards a new creative set-up, so the label ditched the fall show in favor of a presentation at Milan’s Sala delle Cariatidi of Palazzo Reale, a stone’s throw from Piazza Duomo. A grand, decadent space, its atmospheric penumbra contrasted with the artsy spirit of the installation—an artwork of pyramidal Perspex plinths on which mannequins sported an edited men’s and women’s collection.
Designed by the internal team, its approach was consistent with the label’s pared down aesthetic and with its luxe interpretation of a relaxed, casual style. It was intended as a wardrobe of impeccably executed individual pieces, with the Ferragamo’s high-end craftsmanship emphasizing a slender, modern silhouette, slightly inspired by the ’60s, and a versatile take on elegant informality.
Sport-inflected options were given a sleek, unfussy polish, retaining both practicality and sophistication. A roomy jumpsuit, proposed for both genders, looked cool worn under a soft-tailored blazer; a lean beige trenchcoat with built-in wrap scarf and belt was designed to be functional. Knitwear had an inventive touch, which could’ve been further explored; evening pieces were treated as daywear staples and made in malleable knitted fabric, as in a flame red evening top with a ruffled round cut-out at the front, worn with the fluid pants of the season, high-waisted and wide-legged.
Fall will probably be the last of Ferragamo’s transitional collections; next season a new creative director will take the helm of the historical Florentine label, marking the beginning of a new chapter. CEO Marco Gobbetti, who attended today’s presentation, was mum on the subject. Given his stellar track record, and the house’s considerable potential for creative expansion, we should expect some interesting developments.
