Alessandra Rich’s fall collection was full of seductive evening pieces which she designed months ago, when the desire for getting out and having fun after two years of restrictions seemed to finally become a reality. But the dramatic events unfolding in Ukraine drastically shifted the perspective. A full-on party time must once again be put on hold.
Rich was planning to shoot the look book in a plush location, but the circumstances made her change her mind in favor of a disused factory, a space bare and industrial that “felt more appropriate to my feelings,” she said. It made for a stark contrast with the provocative vibe of the collection, where Rich riffed on her repertoire of luscious Lolita-esque styles.
Although the vibe was unmistakably sexy, an element of fun mitigated the drama factor, as if a little girl was playing dress up in her mother’s closet. “I give my women toys to play with,” the designer said, referring to a strawberry-print minidress with puff sleeves, or a midriff-baring cropped jumper embroidered with huge cherries at the front. Gingham, lace, built-in corsets, and faux fur were also part of the game, as well as heart-shaped details on polka-dot printed midi pleated dresses, which the designer described as “more conservative.”
The same couldn’t be said of an hourglass-shaped, corseted longuette Prince of Wales dress with a prim white collar, a once demure creature which was given the risqué treatment with cut-outs revealing the hips and high slits on the sides liberating the legs. It won’t please the Duchess of Cambridge, who’s a faithful client, unless she decides to subvert the monarchy wearing it at some royal event.
Without going to such extremes, the Duchess could choose from a series of slightly more appropriate long evening numbers in black velvet, with plunging heart-shaped décolleté, draped sleeves, and revealing side slits. Perhaps the monarchy wouldn’t be so impacted by a dash of mood-lifting, attractive, sexy glam.
