Milan’s Boglioli chose this season to launch an in-earnest capsule of womenswear alongside its long-established men’s. When presented alongside their menswear equivalents at the house’s showroom this morning, the on-mannequin effect was obviously too matchy-matchy for any but the creepily cutesiest real-world couples. However, you could easily see the cashmere Bermudas, cashmere corduroy deconstructed field jackets, and delicately herringboned K-Jackets—which, unlike their completely unstructured for-men counterparts, had just the slightest ballast in the shoulder—translating finely into the real world. Viviana Volpicella, who worked with Boglioli on shaping this capsule, steered it away from becoming an overly fitted and overly literal reflection of the menswear—a trap that befalls many sartorially sourced women’s offshoots.
Back to menswear, and Boglioli continues to stick to its tailoring roots while working to broaden the span of its tailoring. Highlights included preppy soft-shouldered, checked jackets in thistle-brushed cashmere, a vaguely louche field jacket in olive velvet, the straight-leg corduroy pants that look so good against the New Balance sneakers chosen for this look book, and substantial cashmere rib-knit zip-up cardigans. Cashmere—Boglioli’s key fabric—was presented as a K-Jacket for the first time in a fully recycled incarnation, accredited, the company said, to GRS (Globally Recycled Standard). Alongside the other GRS garments on display, it looked as good as new.
