Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright had been getting back into the runway show groove for the last couple of seasons, hiring performing robots for one show and installing a huge digital backdrop for another. But even if COVID-19 regulations had allowed for IRL events in New York earlier this month, he would’ve opted out. “I’m looking at the European shows wondering if anything’s changed at all, wondering where you wear that stuff,” he said on a phone call.
Wainwright calls the lockdown period a “once-in-a-lifetime” chance to take stock. And take stock he’s done. Back in April he lowered the brand’s prices across the board, and in August he announced a Quality Guaranteed program that sees the label refunding or replacing products that don’t meet its standards. For R&B’s spring 2021 offering he focused less on “the new” and more on standards. “I definitely feel that look-at-me clothing doesn’t feel totally right, right now. It doesn’t feel genuine,” he said. He’s a big believer in normal: “beautifully made, comfortable clothes that make me feel safe and protected in some way,” he said.
You’ll see a marinière sweater tucked into cargo pants; a tweed blazer worn over a t-shirt and a faded denim mini; and a bomber jacket teamed with a plaid button-down and organic cotton track pants. The R&B team worked to make sure the pieces are as mix-and-matchable as possible. They’re not look-at-me clothes, but the leather trench, for example, will get you noticed. Normal sounds pretty good right about now, no?