That working from home has changed the approach to fashion design, at least for the foreseeable future, is a fact. Silhouettes have been redefined through the lens of comfort, which has apparently become the paramount vector directing today’s consumers’ fashion preferences. Is this a shift that will be permanent? Circumstances are so volatile that no prediction can be made, but there’s definitely a new way of thinking about function and form. Shapes are looser; volumes are protective as sheltering cocoons; and fabrics are tactile for soothing self-care. With lockdowns and variously orchestrated curfews resuming in most countries, life indoors will be our everyday reality for months to come—friendly, easy-to-wear clothes won’t go away anytime soon.
For some designers, trading structure and tailoring for softer, more informal options has meant confronting a creative tectonic shift, a sort of reversal of their design principles. Not for Angela Missoni: “For us, comfort has always been at the foundation of our style,” she said via Zoom. “Knitwear is indeed the most malleable, versatile medium to convey a feel of ease. So there’s nothing new for us—we haven’t changed our perspective.”
Discussing her new spring collection, she elaborated, “Since my parents established our house in the ’50s, our collections have never been elaborate or over-designed. Nevertheless, this season I went for even more simplicity and clarity. It came as a spontaneous feel. We are designers and not sociologists; our creativity is what drives us. Although these times call for a heightened sense of responsibility and more engagement on social issues, women—myself included—still desire to be feminine and to express a certain sensuality, even when confined at home.”
The lineup pivoted around an elongated and slightly ’90s silhouette—think tube tops or midriff-baring mini cardigans; slender body-hugging midi-skirts with sexy thigh-high slits; and straight-cut thin-strapped slip dresses baring the back. Missoni’s typical 3D textures were smoothed and simplified, with plays of horizontal intarsias contrasting the verticality of the lines, a touch of Lurex and fishnet-knitted sequins adding luminosity and sparkle. Missoni paired every outfit with T-strap stilettos, casually wrapped around the ankle with printed foulards. “I’ve found myself looking at high heels in my wardrobe with a feel of longing,” she said. “I can’t wait to wear them again when all this will hopefully be over.”
