Wes Gordon still believes in event clothes. Just back from officiating at his little sister’s wedding in Atlanta—rescheduled from June and with an intimate guest list of 25—the Carolina Herrera designer knows that the pandemic won’t permanently cancel special occasions. “Women are still coming to mark milestones; there’s still a desire for clothes that create unforgettable moments,” he said from his house in Connecticut, where he was self-quarantining. But events do look different now, and the changes are reflected in his spring collection.
This was not an abrupt departure for Gordon, who’s about two-and-a-half years into his stint at the label. In fact, he said he’d “doubled-down” on Herrera-isms, like dramatic sleeves, color, polka dots, and prints. It was more so that the attitude of the clothes has shifted. He listed his muses as Mia Farrow, Sade, and Mrs. Herrera herself. Overall, the sensibility was more youthful and casual than usual, while holding onto the grace that is the house founder’s legacy.
The models wore brogues and other flat shoes as they strode through the former Williamsburgh Savings Bank where this look book was photographed. That was the first big difference. Another was the Rosemary’s Baby–era abbreviated hems. A third were the party pants: high-waisted and cropped above the ankles and worn with those brogues to gamine effect. Among the more formal dresses, a willowy black number whose volume blossomed below the knee was especially striking.
Gordon spoke of the satisfaction of getting back into the studio and into the company’s Garment District atelier after having to design, produce, and fit the resort collection that preceded it via computer screen. As he described looks, he named the craftspeople responsible for them. Oksana, the resident tulle whisperer, worked on a sculptural pink tulle party dress; Miro worked on another short number with an asymmetrical bow detail. “All his pieces, you want to dance in them,” Gordon said. “It’s my favorite collection since I’ve been at Herrera,” he added. The pleasure he took in making it shows.
