Imagining a better future is already becoming a motif of the mostly digital, totally pandemic-proofed spring 2021 season. But for Kozaburo Akasaka, philosophizing on fashion’s potential for change is nothing new. The designer half-jokingly categorized his brand as “Orwellian”—always challenging the status quo. He builds seasonal themes as articulated as the flares of his trousers: sharp, cutting, impossible to miss.
For spring 2021, he considered the concept of “en-yu,” an idea he describes as a respect for the individual that leads to a universal harmony. We all exist separately, together—an idea all too poignant for these times. He also found inspiration in the synthetic materials and protection of outer space alongside the techno futurism of ’90s pop culture. The shift from the romantic and brooding cowboys and deserts of his early work to the manufactured, sterile geodome that acts as the background for his spring 2021 collection is stark; his change in materials is maybe starker.
The Kozaburo signatures remain, though, now in Tyvek and polyester instead of cotton or denim. Crinkle leisurewear offers an alternative to the sweatpants lifestyle: relaxed, packable (should you ever find a place to go), and still rigorously tailored, mimicking the high waist of his signature jeans and boxy fits of his preferred jackets. There is also a wavy-print pajama set—“galaxy camo,” per the release—that comes with interchangeable tops: classic button-up, camp shirt, and band collar. Akasaka’s denim look is laser-etched with a vortex design.
This casualwear is contrasted with new experiments in tailoring and silhouette. A midnight blue suit is Akasaka’s take on a double-breasted style, with high-waist, curved trousers and a single-button jacket that crosses dramatically on the front. It’s styled with a black scarf made in traditional shibori—a top version wasn’t ready for the look book, but is a thematic crossover from the popcorn shirts of ’90s music videos and Japanese craftsmanship.
The collection look book ties together Akasaka’s recurring motifs—music, protection, work—in a biodome of protection. There is also a 3D rendering of his studio in Brooklyn that users can navigate to learn more about specific items, be they blankets from seasons past or limited-edition tees from spring 2021. He chose to make this 3D universe rather than a video to find a way to better connect with his customers. “I want to live, I want to look for a better future, and I want the brand to participate in that,” he says. This season of reflection has positioned him well to redefine fashion’s new look.
