The video that accompanies this latest Isabel Marant men’s collection was shot at the Centre National de la Danse, an exceptional Brutalist building on the northeast outskirts of Paris that, as its name implies, is dedicated to research, practice, and performance. You can’t help but feel a vicarious thrill watching the two youthful models let loose within the solid concrete corridors and stairways, as though they have just emerged from quarantine, expending weeks of pent-up energy in cool new looks. And apropos of the setting, it’s interesting to consider that Marant’s approach to menswear continues to register more freestyle than choreographed.
The vibe is consistent from one season to the next—call it L.A.-meets-Marais—without feeling forced. And for spring, looks seemed purposefully fresh. Outerwear was distinctive: a waxed poplin trench and a quilted blouson took cues from the women’s lineup, part of the designer’s intention to create a “transversal” offering. Novelty knits held their own, with little emphasis on tailoring. Pants were cut for optimal ease with low-slung pockets and rolled cuffs. Even a relaxed jumpsuit whose top half can be tied around the waist gave off convincing nonchalance. And all throughout were vivid infusions of color, which, needless to say, had a feel-good quality. See the tie-dye-effect jeans, gradient mohair sweaters, and a bomber pulsing with a stylized ikat pattern.
“The clothes really aren’t complicated,” said Marant from her showroom, which was filled with local buyers, as good a sign as any. When it was suggested that she invariably falls back on sporty ’80s references, she mused, “I have a hard time letting go.” But maybe she doesn’t need to; with her leading the dance, it’s easy to follow.
