It was mid-June when Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez called from their place in Massachusetts to discuss this pre-spring collection, and it’s very much a product of that time. The Proenza Schouler designers spent the early months of the pandemic talking business. The fashion industry was essentially at a standstill in that moment and the new normal had them reconsidering the issue of sustainability. “As a brand with a voice it’s our responsibility to address these things,” McCollough said.
Over the years, they’ve amassed a huge archive of fabrics and they created parts of this pre-spring offering out of those deadstock materials. “It’s not a patchwork vibe, but it’s fabrics we’ve done before, and it’s been game changing,” said Hernandez. They’re also introducing a core offering with this collection that won’t be subject to markdowns, and hope to expand it to up to 30% of their business. “It’s relevant now, but it’s not going to be irrelevant six months from now,” Hernandez continued. “It’s a black sweater, wool suitings, nylon gabardines. So it’s sustainable also in that regard.”
Clicking through the lineup, it has a certain earthiness, but it hasn’t lost its cool. The palette is warm, and the smocking details feel crafty, almost homespun even on leather. As with the spring 2021 collection they revealed last month, there’s an emphasis on easy-wearing knits. But all that is counterbalanced by minimal, ’90s-ish tailoring. It feels intentional that the first look pairs a simple black button-down work shirt with black belted high-waisted flares—a symbolic clean slate. “The top has been blown off the whole system,” Hernandez said, “so let’s just do what we want to do how we want to do it.” Watching how they make good on that notion will make 2021 more interesting.
