Calamity is a good reason to hit the reset button. When Nicole Miller began work on resort, the world had gone dormant. New York closed shop, her usual roster of factories and suppliers were closed indefinitely, and the brand’s team had spread out across the United States while social distancing with their families. Rather than lament any of these changes, Miller got creative and infused her collection with a DIY sensibility. Bohemian cool girls who make their clothes by hand are eternal muses, but who has the time to do all that? Miller’s patchwork denim jackets—the result of combining the waistbands of multiple vintage pairs—channel that sensibility. Likewise, the punchy blue tie-dye that features on cable-knit sweaters and slip dresses owes its existence to snail mail. Assistants dyed pieces in their respective homes then posted them back to New York for the designer’s inspection.
Such resourcefulness gave the collection an energetic feel. Filled with lightweight dresses in paisley and floral prints, it reflects the ease of wear Miller feels women desire at present. “People are going to want short, effortless dresses,” she shared over Zoom. “The kind you can wear over pants and under sweaters.” Another potentially coveted item: jumpsuits, an army green “Eagle Scout” version provided one-and-done simplicity. Separates were plentiful with drawstring-accented trousers and embroidered sweatshirts serving as standouts, but the core concept was maximum impact with minimal effort. The idea that you can pop on a single piece and head out the door.
One such element came with a bit of history. After perusing her archives, Miller happened upon the handmade cowboy boots of Rocketbuster founder Nevena Christi, a former colleague who now creates custom Western-wear beloved by Taylor Swift and Julia Roberts. “We had some vintage ones from the first show she did with us back in the ’90s, then I texted her and asked if she had anything that could work with this collection,” Miller explained. When they were paired with the clothes, the look reminded Miller of a picturesque “Victorian Western” themed wedding she’d recently attended. After months of yoga pants and pajamas, that kind of accessibly chic look is sure to have appeal.
