Haney could not host a show or presentation this season due to the coronavirus pandemic. In these extenuating circumstances, Vogue Runway has made an exception to its policy and is writing about this collection via photos and remote interviews.
Mary Alice Haney makes party dresses. Sequined, curve-hugging, cutout party dresses, “not clothes you wear at home.” Of all the things women stopped buying in the early days of the pandemic, eveningwear was at the top of the list, and it’s unlikely to change anytime soon. Even as cities begin to reopen around the country, it’s still unclear when it will be safe to gather for a party. Looking ahead to the holidays, when this resort collection will ship, most of us are likely to be spending quiet nights at home—not raging at raucous New Year’s Eve bashes.
All to say, Haney has realistic expectations. She knows there won’t be a huge demand for her resort collection, which includes “core” items in seasonal hues and a capsule of red carpet gowns made in collaboration with Escada. (Haney’s longtime friend is a chairman at Regent, which acquired Escada in 2019.) With nods to Old Hollywood and the costume designer Jean Louis, the gowns are some of Haney’s fanciest yet, covered in crystals and feathers in an irreverent palette. Haney had a few early samples when she presented her fall 2020 collection back in February, and was already thinking about which celebrities would wear them to the Emmys. Now, of course, we don’t know if a red carpet will be possible by Oscars time next year, to say nothing of the Emmys in September. “I considered just not showing this collection at all,” Haney admitted. “But my team put so much love into this, and I thought maybe people want to see a little glamour right now.”
When awards-show red carpets do come back, it’s fair to assume actresses will want to make a statement—or at least have a little fun. Haney’s peony pink ombré dress with dip-dyed feathers along the hem would be an unapologetic choice, while women who are drawn to vintage silhouettes might appreciate the silvery, draped-shoulder gown with a crystal neckline. Red carpets are just one part of Haney’s business, of course. For the rest of us, she’s planning to introduce more easy separates and day-to-night options in her next collection. “I don’t know when people will go back to this high-glamour look,” she said. “But it’s turned out to be a very creative time for me. I’m thinking about who the Haney woman will be when this all ends.”
