There were more than a dozen evening gowns on Brock Collection’s fall runway, voluminous ones puffed up with taffeta, horsehair, and tiers of ruffles. But there were glimpses of minimalism too: sleek tailoring, knit sets, flat boots. If Kristopher Brock and Laura Vassar were balancing two impulses—for sumptuous red carpet dresses and simpler, unadorned stuff—the pandemic has now nudged them toward the latter. Their resort lineup consists mostly of daywear, including some items you could actually wear to quarantine at home, like champagne satin trousers—styled here with an oversized button-down—and a blush camisole and slip skirt. They feel like loungewear without veering too far into the “pajama dressing” cliché. Even more novel were a gingham knit cardigan and matching leggings. Vassar said they’re offering them in a range of colors, meaning the combo is expected to be popular. It might come at a lower price point too, and will resonate with young women gravitating toward the trend for matching sets.
As for the handful of fancier items, Brock pointed out the fraying hems and exposed handwork on flowery dresses and bustiers, recalling the raw, unfussy sensibility of their past collections. Pre-pandemic, he said they’d sourced some heavier jacquards for resort, likely with holiday parties in mind, but promptly swapped them out for natural, tactile materials like linen, cotton, and suede. Their signature floor-length coatdress, for instance, came in antique florals in the past but was shown here in plain black cotton.
The desert setting of their look book—the first they’ve ever shot in their home state of California—mirrored the softer, understated mood they’re anticipating in November. It’s impossible to truly know what the world will look like by then, but the sensitive customer will most likely avoid clothing that feels out of touch or unsympathetic to the crisis. If she’s shopping at all, or has a holiday get-together on her calendar, she might find a bit of uplift in a plaid dress and suede jacket, or maybe a puffed-sleeve midi and linen slippers—items that don’t sacrifice beauty for a sense of discretion. That said, there’s still room for a little fantasy; the woman shopping optimistically for the future may go for that strapless taffeta dress bursting with wildflowers. If we can’t physically travel this year, a bit of wanderlust in our wardrobe could go a long way.
