Working from home, connecting only remotely while fighting the anxiety and fear of an uncertain future has been tough on designers. Amidst the steep learning curve of the lockdown, the resourcefulness of their colleagues—from members of the design studio to factory workers and artisans—proved essential to building fully formed collections expressive of their creative visions. “I’m really so proud of my team and very grateful,” said Paul Andrew over the phone. “They did the most amazing job working from home. This collection feels truly special to me.”
Before the pandemic, Andrew was looking at mid-century Scandinavian furniture design for inspiration. Functionalism, clean lines, organic materials, and minimal construction were all concepts resonating with him.
Andrew’s new collections for men and women feature sleek silhouettes. Designed with a focus on lightness and suppleness, they were made using mostly organic materials. Leather was upcycled; and cashmere, cotton, and nylon were sustainably produced and certified. Andrew is committed to steering the company in a more sustainable direction. By next year, at least 25% of all the raw materials used in production will be responsibly sourced. Reducing waste is another concern. “Out of necessity we’ve been somehow forced to focus more stringently on the process, from both a creative and a productive standpoint,” said Andrew. “We didn’t overdevelop the collections—less but better. Mindfulness will definitely stay with me.”
The lookbook, together with the video produced for Milan Digital Fashion Week, was shot on location, in a mid-century modernist villa on the seaside near Florence designed by the Italian architect Massimo Tempestini. Its clean lines jibe with Ferragamo’s sophisticated idea of style, and its natural surroundings align with the lightness and joie de vivre Andrew wanted to convey. “Coming out from such dark times, I wanted to bring in the outside. And smiling,” he said.
Soft tailored pieces with a utilitarian undertone are at the core of both collections. A sleeveless pantsuit for her complemented an unstructured, unlined suit for him, both cut from fresh sand-toned cotton. Bursts of bright orange gave energy and zing to a recycled nylon hoodie, a folded midi skirt, a striped knit caftan. A touch of animalier, a hybrid giraffe-leopard pattern reworked from archival motifs, was printed on both a billowy women’s trench and on a generous, oversized men’s shirt. It was the only decorative jolt in an otherwise serene collection. “There’s no desire for complicated clothes right now,” said Andrew. “Or for any complication, for that matter.”
Although edited and condensed, the collection exuded a lively, summery feel; it’ll be delivered in stores in May and June next year, aligning sales with the seasonal calendar—surely another byproduct of the rethinking of fashion practices that the lockdown has triggered. Ferragamo seems ready to play its part.
