Discussing her pre-fall collection on a Zoom call, Tory Burch talked about “the allure of simplicity.” On the morning of President Trump’s second impeachment, her words were especially resonant. Has America ever felt quite as on the brink as it has this past week?
“It’s an interesting time to design right now,” Burch said. “It’s making us all a bit more introspective: thinking about what we really want, what will last, something that’s not fleeting. I’m enjoying the challenge.” It shows. Broadly speaking, Burch’s instinct of late has been to cut the frills. She sees the dividing line between luxury and frivolity and she’s not going to cross it.
That’s not to say that she’s abandoned all adornments; the sculpted leather buttons that trim the elongated vest and culottes that open the look book confirm she’s no minimalist. But the collection does nod back to the streamlined efficiency of ’70s era American sportswear, especially the sweater vest and bow-front blouse accompanied by an A-line skirt aswirl with iris flowers at the hem and a slim button-front sundress in a soft shade of lavender. The wide-collared dickeys worn underneath V-neck sweaters were inspired by Burch’s mom, who sounds as practical as she was chic.
On the more decorative side, there was a quilted jacket and cape in a cheery fruit-basket print, as well as a dress and matching shawl in chocolate brown with flowers picked out in white sequins. Burch always has success with her caftans; this season they came two ways: slim and straight with those curving appliquéd irises or in a voluminous patchwork of broderie anglaise, point d’esprit, lace, and voile.
