History often repeats itself. This season Grazia Malagoli, Sportmax’s fashion director, is certainly hoping it does. Malagoli believes that a parallelism can be drawn between the Roaring Twenties, an era of effervescence and rebirth after the destruction of World War I, and what may emerge when the pandemic eases its grip on the world. She is positive that a desire for celebration will drive women’s behavior—and their spending habits, of course. “Women’s resilience and joie de vivre will prevail,” she said during a showroom presentation of the label’s pre-fall collection, which is named 1920-2020.
The ’20s saw an abundance of fabulous female personalities breaking down social restrictions to express a freedom not experienced by previous generations of women. Between the many muses at her disposal, Malagoli chose as an inspiration Claude Cahun, a French artist of androgynous sophistication. In her time, she embodied a stylish counterpoint to the short-skirted, sexy flappers, who madly danced in jazz clubs in low-waisted fringed and sequined numbers—no corsets in sight.
Malagoli worked on alternating slender, almost boyish shapes with more feminine form-fitting silhouettes. She also introduced a jolt of vivid color, inspired by Sonia Delaunay’s chromatic palette, and a touch of animalier prints as a nod to Josephine Baker. It was an appealing way to energize the collection and to infuse warmth and sensuality into the usually more modernist and cool Sportmax vibe. Velvet was used throughout, highlighting a certain tactility, giving a softer edge to a tailored pant suits or heightening the seductive feel of a sinuous dress in shades of lavender and golden yellow.
Leather was supple and light: A tunic in a bright shade of green was pierced by metallic rings; the back of a black top was thin-strapped and fringed. An animalier-printed oversized trench made a big statement and a soft faux-fur coat looked luxurious—Zelda Fitzgerald would’ve thrown it nonchalantly over one of her fabulous party frocks.