The pandemic’s many challenges notwithstanding, Alberta Ferretti’s attitude is that of “a practical dreamer.” On the phone to discuss pre-fall, she explained, “I think that we have to confront reality without giving up our desire for romance, imagination, and fantasy.” She tinged her new collection with what she called “a flair for free-spirited bohemia,” meaning there was plenty of whimsy infused into otherwise quite sensible everyday wardrobe staples.
Ferretti’s optimism is backed up by her hope that, when this collection is delivered in stores later this year, the pandemic will have relented and our lives will be somehow back in shape. To tempt her customers there are soft-tailored tartan pantsuits in autumnal shades of rust and persimmon, and parkas and city coats in silver-gray wool jacquard with motifs of country landscapes, one of which was paired with a romantic rose-printed chiffon dress worn as a blouse over sporty checkered trousers.
Combining comfort and fantasy seems the right way ahead for Ferretti; it rings true to her early, most authentic and believable creative vision. She worked on every piece of the collection almost individually, adding a dash of decorative flair (as in voluminous sweaters knitted from a mix of different yarns and embellished with elaborate crochet 3D motifs) or indulging in handcrafted details (zippered leather jackets, corduroy blazers, or sporty canvas dusters airbrushed to add a painterly touch) to make each of them feel, as she said, “special, unique, with a heart and soul.”
Ferretti’s optimism extended to hoping that parties will resume at some point. To prepare us for that possibility, she showed delicate evening numbers in embroidered velvet or ruffled chiffon, with sleek tuxedos or billowy organza blouses providing an efficient yet imaginative alternative. “Fashion is a way of reading the zeitgeist,” she said. Certainly the pandemic has treated us to an extra-dose of reality, forcing us to embrace pragmatism and face facts. “But if we don’t dream again, there won’t be any tomorrow,” Ferretti concluded. No arguing with that.
