Given that she launched her pre-fall collection only a matter of weeks ago, it makes sense that Jenny Packham’s latest offering picks up where she left off: delving into the sartorial tastes of Old Hollywood icons. Not that you’d be able to spot the quick turnaround, given the labor-intensive and meticulous craftsmanship involved in her sumptuous, hand-beaded, sequin-dripping dresses for fall.
The point of difference this season, however, was finding Packham in an even more playful mode. Inspired by Beth Bernstein’s book exploring the intoxicating myths behind celebrity jewelry collections, titled If These Jewels Could Talk, Packham imagined her gowns hanging in wardrobes the morning after a night out, the layers of tulle rustling together to whisper their illicit secrets. “With my dresses, while I’m always very happy that they’re worn out to these fabulous parties to make memories, sometimes I wish I could go with them,” Packham says. “I mean, it would be wonderful to know what they get up to.”
Looking not just to the sparkling metallics of a 1950s Tinseltown starlet’s necklace, or the Elizabeth Taylor–inspired ruby and amethyst tones that cropped up across a number of pieces, Packham saw what is likely to be her first “après-lockdown” collection as an opportunity to dial up the volume. A series of gowns is decorated in gold and silver sequins that radiate outward like glittering fireworks. Two dresses in hot pink—one with a gorgeously swishy full skirt smattered with further sequins, another exploding with feathers and tied at the waist with a satin sash—are as party ready as they come.
It isn’t just the thrill of indulging in these flights of fancy that has nudged Packham toward the more decadent end of the spectrum, but a very grounded response to the requests she’s received from stockists and customers. An ethereal, Grecian-inspired dress from last season was a particular hit, prompting Packham to work on a series of crepe silk gowns with sensual draping across the back. Many of them come in white; unsurprisingly, perhaps, she has an eye firmly trained on the bridal boom many are anticipating over the next year.
While Packham notes that she’s already booking in her bridal appointments ahead of the lockdown easing in mid-April, she’s also charging ahead with her offering of ready-to-wear bridal for online, in anticipation of the post-pandemic shopping habits that may be forever changed—even when it comes to that special day. “People who have waited may just want to order something, as they won’t have the time to go through the whole process,” says Packham. “Either way, it should be a really exciting year for weddings.” And when those parties and celebrations do start up again, you can be sure that if Packham’s dresses could talk, they’d have plenty to say.
