No doubt the past year or so hasn’t been the easiest for Elie Saab. The fashion industry has taken a battering the world over, but the pandemic has been least kind to couture houses. With all events canceled—from red carpet premieres to glitzy fundraisers to fancy weddings—2020 had zero need for a sensational gown of any kind. But that wasn’t all Saab had to contend with. His atelier and also his home were reduced to rubble in August’s Beirut blast, which caused more than 200 deaths and left more than 300,000 people homeless. “Honestly we are in very bad times,” he admitted via a Zoom call. “The country hasn’t passed this difficult moment…it is very, very difficult.” And yet, he said with a smile, “we try to be hopeful; to be positive.” His 400 employees in Lebanon depend on it.
It helps that this week things are beginning to open up again in Beirut, after months of lockdown. And there are other glimmers of joy on the horizon too: Michael, Saab’s youngest son, recently announced his engagement, so there is the matter of a wedding to plan later this year and, importantly, a dress to create.
But first, fall ’21: Confidence, strength, and allure were three words Saab used to define the characteristics of his heroine this season. Black came in every which way, from dramatic, all-absorbing velvets and ruffled, transparent tulles to lace and macramé, further toughened up with thigh-high leather boots and elbow-length gloves. A micro-windowpane check was particularly modern worked into a two-piece of culottes and a ’70s-style blazer. Playful polka dots decorated trouser suits and midiskirts and were, Saab said, a way in to easier looks more suited for day. But that was as relaxed as he got, aside perhaps from a pair of chic silk pj’s printed in a geometric Art Deco motif that could go anywhere—from the beach to a party to the office—or nowhere at all, should WFH be your reality.
But Elie Saab’s talents extend beyond ready-to-wear and haute couture; lately it is more apt to categorize his brand as ‘lifestyle.’ He recently added Elie Saab Maison, an elegant lineup of furniture, lighting, rugs, and home accessories, to his portfolio, and only a few weeks ago he debuted a 28-piece collection of watches comprising stainless steel and diamonds. He says they’ve been a big success. In the face of adversity, his energy is certainly admirable. “I always want to challenge myself, to do better and to do more,” he said. “I enjoy working so much; it’s great to advance and go in new directions.” Onward and upward.
