When Jason Rembert last dropped an Aliétte collection, the world was pre-COVID-19, and big-ticket events were still plentiful. The pandemic changed all that, and like his peers, Rembert had to adjust to creating during a time of crisis. He saw 2020’s solemn mood begin to seep into his work. “I began with a dark canvas; it was more about the silhouette and creating things that can live on their own without having color to give them vibrancy,” he shares on the phone from Los Angeles.
Even if an explosion of upbeat color wasn’t in the cards, Rembert’s initial desire to paint it black didn’t result in sedate fashion. He dove back into eveningwear. With years of experience as a stylist, Rembert is uniquely poised to bring something fresh to an arena currently in flux. Old-school step-and-repeats are no longer viable (or safe), so much of the glitz has gone online. Aliétte’s designs are ideal for the detail-oriented at-home editorials stars are filling their Instagram feeds with these days. You might miss a key embellishment like the pastel pink belt cinching together a glossy overcoat if the wearer is breezing through a crowd, but when you can zoom in, save an image, and right-click to buy, no element goes unnoticed.
Rembert’s after-hours focus arrives when many have tired of phrases like “loungewear” and “Zoom-appropriate” and are eager to revisit glamour. “The current climate is extremely casual, but I know that the pieces I’ve wanted to invest in during the pandemic have been more aspirational,” he says. “I’m over buying sweatpants; [eventually] you want beautiful fabrications and to wear something you can’t just throw on every day.” Rembert’s take on the concept is less about skin and more about morale. “It’s ambitious and hopeful; the clothing we’re bringing into his new world should bring happiness and joy,” he says. “People are still dressing up, even if it’s for a socially distanced event or at home.”
Indeed, Aliétte’s enterprising celebrity fans like Zendaya, Amanda Gorman, and Regina King haven’t slowed down a bit, and their tenacity was addressed via the designs. Each look spoke to a different kind of female strength; the woman who gravitates towards the stately chartreuse gown with a built-in cape might not be the same one who seeks out the PVC pants-and-vest pairing that called to mind Catwoman. What united these opposing looks was an overarching sense of power.
The collection’s sense of confidence may have something to do with the new techniques Rembert featured within it. He played with patchwork, creating memorable coats out of scalloped leather. And he also experimented with oversized logo embroidery. “My biggest goal is to grow as a designer and within my craft,” says Rembert. “It’s so important to us. Challenging ourselves, elevating our craftsmanship so that we have that extra level of detail, and creating collections we can be proud of.” Rembert’s derring-do has already impressed his biggest fan: “I showed my daughter the look book, and she was like, ‘Daddy, I like this,’ which just meant so much to me because this is her name and part of her legacy.”
