This meet-up with Alexandre Vauthier was a Zoom times two. First we got together on the near-ubiquitous platform (Teams trails second, Meets a distant third), and then this cyclonic designer began to ricochet around his showroom at maximum velocity.
Bouncing from rail to rail Vauthier demonstrated how his ready-to-wear acts as aftershock to the ground zero couture ignition that precedes it. As he explained: “In the ready-to-wear I try to find the right balance between the idea of the couture, quality, sizing, and touch…the ready-to-wear is a real declination of the couture.” And does ready-to-wear ever trickle back up to influence his couture? “No, never!”
Thus the creative energy used for this season’s nightclub-shot couture was harnessed and diffused into this street- and studio-shot collection. The fronded red ruffle-strewn lamé dress that captivated on the Le Palace dance floor was adapted into an equally arresting prêt-à-porter silver, along with a softer suite of white equivalents. The lilac-shot gray check suiting and slouchy cashmere coating was expanded to encompass multiple color stories—off-white, purple, blue, pink, and, of course, black—and to be within the reach of a broader financial demographic. Couture’s crystal-embroidered denim—some with Lemarié-applied feathering—plus glittering fringed mesmerizers, and cleverly gathered tuxedo jackets were all similarly reiterated. A nice wrist-to-wrist, wing meets capelet detail—also couture originated—flew on perfectos, caban coats, and trenches. Gold-set crystal pendants (produced in partnership with Goossens) and the first p-a-p iteration of Vauthier’s new Zanotti license starred alongside crystal-set berets and belts on the accessories table.
As in most seasons, the contrast between his passionate pragmatism in conversation and hyper-efficient fantasy in design was exhilarating, even from afar. As our connection began to lag then falter—he was Zooming way too fast—Vauthier mentioned that his e-commerce will launch in May. Expect it to explode.
