The past months have been a time for reflection, and at Billy Reid a time to study the findings of a recent brand study. The results couldn’t have been a surprise; they revealed that his customer wants “sophisticated, understated, beautiful fabrics; unexpected details; and wearability.” The fall collection delivers on all of those fronts. It’s tightly edited, with a focus on tailoring.
The womenswear collection was more coherent than it has sometimes been in the past. Structure feels right here and better connects women’s offerings with the men’s. A gray pantsuit was crisply elegant, while a mid-length shearling coat looked decadent. Ditto the moleskin pants for guys.
Leather is one of Reid’s staples, but it doesn’t outshine the woven fabrics which have a suppleness all their own. There’s an interesting contrast between the slim fit of the coats and the tactile aspect of their fabric. Also conveying softness within the strictness of tailoring was a medium brown suit in cotton pincord. There were brushed coats, too, and Reid’s signature knitwear.
As Reid went through the collection, he pointed out designs that had been in the collection for years—a peacoat, a leather moto, shirts—that customers never tire of. He also spoke wistfully of the hospitality aspect of the business that the pandemic prevents. But has the designer really put that aside? The job of a good host is to make people feel at home, and to anticipate their needs; feats Reid achieves in designs that might well be described as hospitable.
