This was la Parisienne de Sandro enriched with relatively subtle Indian-sourced motifs. The press release put it poorly—“She plays with the bourgeois conventions of the past with a colonial flavor”—but the clothes were much more inoffensive than the rhetoric. Yes, there was a finely cut khaki jumpsuit shown with a paisley neckerchief, but in the absence of a pith helmet and swagger stick, this looked more East Hampton than East India Company. Denim shirting and skirts were puckered with metal-set beading, perhaps a vague translation of Rajasthan embellishment. There was a ruffle top in violent fuchsia, saffron blouses, and embroidered shirts in rich ochre. Sundresses and blouses were presented in an adapted tree-of-life print, and attractively washed paisley shirting in a cotton-metal blend.
Much here was reliably Sandro in its sharp-eyed updates of perennial French Girl classics. These included a handsome pleated trench coat, marinière tank tops shown against sleeve-tied shiny black leather pants, some Chanel-style coats that played bouclé against denim, and a new half-bucket bag named Olga.
