Packages of “Ninalicious” bubble gum were placed on every seat at Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh’s Nina Ricci show. The duo is taking this label in an unexpected direction. On their Spring runway, humor and a quirky kind of youthfulness replaced the familiar codes of femininity and romance. Consider the brightly colored buckets that functioned as bags and hats. The designers said they were inspired by a summertime trip to the beach with their nephews and that they were after a sense of nostalgia. Also, the modified cloches from their Fall debut were a hit.
Botter and Herrebrugh launched a menswear collection not long before they were named to this Nina Ricci post. They’re untested and in the spotlight, so it makes sense to build on what’s working for them. But the learning curve is steep. The standaway collars and hyperbolic pouf shoulders of the opening organza looks, a riff on Dominican Republic maid uniforms, were too extreme, and the logo detail across the chest rather out of place on the delicate material. Round, bib-like collars on button-down blouses—these a nod to their Belgian roots—were almost as exaggerated and might be slightly easier to wear. Pieces like a pair of pastel dresses in airy cloque had a naive, unstudied charm. But there was a significant disconnect between them and the soberer pintuck tailoring that formed the foundation of the collection.
Botter and Herrebrugh are the most earnest of beginners. Their experiments are to be applauded, even those that weren’t successful. Something they definitely got right was their instinct for effervescence, especially in the current moment when we’re confronted with so much difficulty. Joy is a quality to build on.
