For millennia, people have climbed the steep promontory at the southernmost tip of Greece to worship at the Temple of Poseidon—drawn by its significance in myth and its monumental witness to human endeavor—and to breathe in the infinite blue of the Aegean beyond. But there’s never been a temple procession like the one last night—the women trailing multicolored gowns, the national dignitaries, the super-wealthy philanthropists, and Anne-Marie, the Queen of Greece herself. They were wending their way to witness a piece of Greek history being made: Mary Katrantzou’s ceremonial offering to the health of the Greek nation.
Well, what could a designer do to match the enormity of the occasion? A show which touched on the values of couture to project the living resonance of Greek culture throughout Western civilization—the capstone to a fashion season which has often sought to bring the emotional and rational meanings of the past to present relevance. Much has been talked about escapism and craftsmanship as a justification for high-skilled fashion, but Katranzou’s show was a joining of the other argument that concerns young designers: that fashion should also somehow serve the concerns of humanity and community. Katrantzou had joined hands with Mrs. Marianna Vardinogiannis to raise funds on a national and international platform for the Elpida Association, her charity for children with cancer, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary.
Thus, government permission was granted for Katranzou’s rainbow odyssey through Greek achievement. It was embedded everywhere in the dresses that proceeded from the temple. “I wanted to use ideas that were birthed here, in the 5th century before Christ when the temple was built,” Katrantzou said, “philosophy, theology, biology, astronomy, trigonometry. Ideas that are so abstract—words that were birthed here two and a half thousand years ago—and the wonder that they can be so relevant today.”
Nowhere was the point made as meaningfully as with the dress which bore the universal emblem of medicine on its bodice: silver-embroidered serpents, entwined around a staff. There was another that spoke to justice via an allusion to peplos pleating in a stone-colored dress with a jeweled bra in the shape of scales. Each dress was its own entity, one with spiraling numbers representing the infinity of Pi, another spangled with a map of the heavens, a tabard studded with compasses, alluding to Greece as the culture which spread throughout the globe via its ancient seafaring prowess.
To enable and underscore all of this, Katranzou had summoned the massed powers of the Greek diaspora. A testament to her enthusiasm, persistence, and sheer dogged idealism, she persuaded Vangelis to score the soaring music, Ancient Greek Sandals to collaborate, Aegean Airlines to fly people in, and The Four Seasons to back her up with luxury guest accommodation. The young patriot, who organized this from her headquarters in East London, even had millions of euros worth of archival Bulgari diamonds adorning the necks and wrists of her models. “I found out that Sotirios Bulgari was born in Greece before he went to Rome,” she said. “I could not believe their generosity in joining, elevating this event to such an unbelievable level.”
Mapping learning, wisdom, and travel, this also made those who’ve followed Katranzou’s fashion trajectory think of how far she has come to arrive at this spectacular homecoming. From her roots, 10 years ago as a Central Saint Martins M.A. graduate who dared to start up as an independent in the middle of the world’s worst economic crash in living memory, this joyful spectacular—full of singular dresses for the many women who collect her one-offs—was a triumph of resilience and hope in so many ways. At the finale, there was a standing ovation as the models stood as an honor guard for the children and young adults who are survivors, thanks to Elpida. As Katrantzou took her bow surrounded by children, many tears flowed—just as money poured into the future of the charity. As an image of fashion transcending itself by lending itself as a medium for practical good, it ended the season on a note of redemption.
