Efisio Marras had Diana Ross’s explosive charisma in mind for his Spring collection, together with the pale, electric allure of Warhol’s doomed muse Edie Sedgwick. Why so? “They were both groundbreaking personalities in their own right,” explained the ebullient young designer. “They both broke social and racial barriers: Edie was an upper-class girl meddling with the Factory’s downtown artsy milieu; Diana became a superstar despite the social hostility towards her black heritage.”
The creative spirit certainly runs deep into the Marras clan. Efisio has inherited the love for a good narrative and the energy and bravado to translate it into slightly madcap yet cohesive collections. His aesthetic is imbued with a downtown, irreverent vibe—but despite his efforts to differentiate himself from the poetic, elaborate vision of his father, Antonio, a bit of surreal whimsy has rubbed off on him. For Spring, the conversation he imagined between two strong female personalities, albeit incongruous (“Bon-Ton meets disco,” he said), had a sort of fresh appeal, addressing obliquely and with a light, humorous hand relevant themes of race and women’s empowerment.
As for the clothes, they looked upbeat and cheerfully feminine, graced by a Warhol-inspired, blown-up flower print in bright colors; short minidresses had a late-’60s vibe, while the street-sporty attitude was smoothed in favor of a more girly approach. Sweatshirts and hoodies had brocade details. Diana Ross–inspired long, tentlike dresses were eye-catching, with ruffles and volants galore. Marras designs with his posse of young girlfriends in mind; they love a good, fun party. Who could blame them?
