Why do the ’60s and ’70s keep coming up in this season’s collections? For Hedi Slimane, the subject is less a matter of tackling the current socio-political zeitgeist than staying true to what he’s always done. This Celine collection was home territory for the designer, and he systematically focused on making a wardrobe, bootcut jean by bootcut jean, blazer by blazer, pleated silk dress by culotte by aviator sunglass and hippy jacket.
For Spring, Slimane took the theme back to circa 1974, when Celine was a destination store for the discreet French bourgeoisie, selling such things as silk separates, horse-bit-decorated bags and shoes. All of these were present and correct, expanded into a repertoire which touched streetwear at one level, and glittering gold lamé and embroidered dresses at the other.
The point is that Parisian girls were the envy of the world, with all their nonchalance and undone hair, and their ability to tie a scarf. Slimane’s merchandising and image-making strengths make it as much about capitalizing on that picture in a globalized world as it is about fashion itself.
Many have followed in his footsteps, but there’s no rival to his forensic, granular knowledge of how to make every element play its part.
