Purple Label is Ralph Lauren’s jewel in the crown, a cultivated exercise in fine tailoring, where a quintessential sense of ease is infused with sophisticated polish. A palette of soft tonal colors, a slightly vintage insouciance, a fluidity of fit and balance of proportions come to mind when thinking of Purple Label’s signature aesthetic. Yet at today’s presentation at the label’s sumptuous Milanese headquarters, what stood out was a gorgeous, visually compelling lineup of brightly colored evening suits in shades of saturated yellow, fuchsia, and orange. Slim fitting and sharply cut in silk shantung, they looked exceptional, pointing towards an updated approach, with a zest of chic playfulness: “They’re tailored with a lighter construction, but still maintaining sartorial proportions,” said John Wrazej, executive vice president and creative director of men’s design. “They’re all handmade; it’s our uncompromising way of tailoring. They’re probably among the best suits you can find.”
The collection also played on sophistication in the daywear offer, with tailoring in proprietary soft-toned wool-gabardine exuding a luxurious yet relaxed feel. An interesting alternative for summer evenings was a single-breasted cashmere blazer in a dense, sensual tobacco shade; paired with cream-colored fluid pants, “it’d look beautiful with a tan,” suggested Wrazej.
A sporty allure featured prominently in a series of knitted intarsia sweaters and polo shirts with marine-inspired motifs, while nautical references were in evidence in officer’s jackets, wide-leg pants, and striped sweaters.
But the most innovative aspect the collection were the RLX technical performance fabrics used for roomy, well-cut waterproof parkas and sailing jackets. “It’s nylon, a polyester yarn made using recycled plastic bottles,” explained Wrazej. ”It’s completely high-performance. The company is taking a strong stand towards going sustainable. For Fall we’ll have a lot more sustainable fabrics; probably 80 percent of our nylons and insulations will be made with sustainable yarns,” he continued. “The issue is front and center across the company, with very strict guidelines that over the next four or five years we’ll be shifting the label towards a much more environmentally conscious approach, even in manufacturing.”
