“For my generation, Serge Gainsbourg has always been an inspiration, an icon of absolute charm, his transgressive allure truly enthralling,” said Angela Missoni of the French champion of dissolute, cultivated chic, a rare breed of intellectual power and sex appeal whose intoxicating (and surely intoxicated) charm still fascinates. The Spring lineup referenced his eccentric style, much in keeping with the eclectic, unconventional vibe always running through Missoni’s collections. “Nonconformity is a precious quality to me,” said the designer. “I grew up in a progressive, rather atypical family. I look for diversity everywhere, in every form.”
The collection, presented in Missoni’s airy, sun-kissed Milanese showroom, had an individual, effortless vibe, revolving around an imaginative take on the label’s classic visuals, elevated with hints at decorative panache and artsy irreverence. Much in keeping with the current menswear trend of informal formality, the silhouette was fluid and elongated; knitted separates, made with the exceptional techniques the house is famous for, were comfortable and versatile, with vibrant colors adding a spirited feel.
A dive into the archives led to ’70s-inspired knitted motifs and prints gracing a jacquard sweater intricately woven with a Tibetan talismanic design with a folksy flair. A pastel-colored watercolor drawing was blown up into a poetic version of multicolor camouflage, lining an elegant waterproof trench whose texture was smoothed with aloe to achieve the softest finish. A graphic print of a man working on a jungle farm had an exotic naivety. Missoni’s output always has a certain persuasive energy, and here it was on full display: It’s pretty hard not to fall under its spell.
