There was an engaging flavor of dad clothes ripped asunder and then recombined by an inventive mind to suit the roll of a new generation in this strong Kolor menswear collection, which was shot in Tokyo. Different in the nature of its twist (and the order of lookbook backdrop), but also very effective in its collision of prettiness with apparently abstract deconstruction was the women’s collection. Discussing men’s as we raided his rail, Junichi Abe said: “This time I used lots of traditional images, like tailored jackets, chesterfield coats, and traditional checks, but using them to become pop garments.” He also mentioned Giorgio Armani, a resurgent reference across several collections this season, and something you could see in Abe’s mashed-up, loose-armhole jackets and coats.
One crispy nylon olive trench with a perforated orange lining stood out especially to this browser, but from the technical-twisted slides and bags made of shining malleable jersey under aluminum under vinyl to the chopped-up check dad-gone-mad jacketing and spliced-up trousers, there was lots here to dig into.
For the women's spring collection, mumsy prettiness rather than dusty dadness was the grain sent through Abe’s creative mill before being baked into fresh shapes. These included a fine long handkerchief-print silk dress iced with a narrow belt and melded to a gold-threaded knit, a loose black mesh top above a skirt in clever croc-pattern-pressed red nylon, and a many-patched dress whose skirt was a shimmering skein of metallic finished check. Sometimes those volumized check jackets and chesterfields returned, this time floral-stamped, to make a point of intersection between Abe’s mixed-up woman and Abe’s mixed-up man.
