When a designer says they prioritize sustainability, it’s our natural instinct to look for clues to touch and feel: the hand-stitching of a sweater, the organic cotton of a T-shirt, the recycled polyester of a workout legging. In reality, so much of what makes a collection sustainable actually isn’t tangible. Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough’s spring 2020 menswear presentation was a reminder of that. Yesterday, they showed 12 variations on the navy suit, from their signature curvy blazer to new experiments with jacquard and leather, plus a “shirt suit” for the guy who feels restricted even by their ribbed-knit paneled jackets. Design-wise, there were touches of an Eastern influence in the kimono vests and wrap details, and they introduced a few sportier pieces, like a cobalt parka and satin bomber.
It was sleeker and simpler than what the duo showed for fall 2019, but the pared-back approach belied the innovation happening behind the scenes: Abasi and Rosborough’s biggest strides came in the actual design and production process, before these clothes were even made. They’ve spent the past few seasons learning about virtual reality, and have figured out how to design “99 percent” of a garment virtually, without using any resources whatsoever. That means they can experiment with silhouette, fabric, and proportion without wasting any fabric or time.
Their fellow designers will recognize the implications of that. How much gets thrown away in the sampling process? And how many of those samples never even make it into the show? As we grow more conscious of the way we buy, wear, and discard clothes, it’s important to consider the waste that happens (or doesn’t) before we even make the purchase. Still, it’s important that designers maintain a human touch. “When you think about these futuristic ideas and designs, they often feel really synthetic,” Rosborough said. “We intentionally only use natural fibers, like cotton, wool, cashmere, linen. We’re not going into hyper-tech nylons. It’s about keeping it natural, and mixing these ancient fibers with the most innovative technology.”
