Approaching its 50th anniversary, the Sportmax team looked back at its heritage, updating its archival templates according to a streamlined concept of utilitarian elegance, tinged with a sportif element and a modern flair for tailoring. Resort revolved around the celebration of its most relevant item: the trench, which was given a new lease on life, translated into dusters, skirts, and even dresses.
“We called this collection Tailoring Evolution,” explained fashion director Grazia Malagoli, pointing out a dress that was actually a hybrid between a classic-cut camel-color trench coat and a very feminine sun-pleated skirt; made in soft techno-cotton stretch, it highlighted the comfortable, dynamic feel of in the collection. An imaginative approach was also conveyed in a trench coat subtly decorated with inserts of shiny patches, or in a trench-inspired pencil skirt worn with a neoprene sweatshirt.
Experimenting with tailoring was a strong point in Malagoli’s agenda: “We tried to give the suit a novel shape,” she said. See: the new proportions of abbreviated ‘80s-inspired boxy jackets cut with ergonomic details and paired with high-waisted fluid pants, or shapely masculine blazers with contrasting corset-like inserts, worn with trapeze-cut short dresses. The precise tailoring and architectural yet fluid silhouettes were the collection’s most compelling and defining traits.
Embedded in the label’s core there’s obviously a sporty vibe, which was celebrated at the Fall show with the launch of new Sportmax sneakers. Here they were proposed in many updated versions; together with a leather cap and a new line of sunglasses, they enhanced the collection’s dynamic attitude.
