The most straightforward thing to say about Michael Kors Resort is that it’s not a collection of getaway pieces. “When women are wearing black in Palm Beach, you know times have changed,” the designer said at his early morning presentation.
Beyond the basic fact that these are urbane clothes, the story becomes more layered. Kors mixed punk embellishments with prim polka-dots, added ruffle trims to otherwise strictly cut jackets and coats, and melded eras: Shoulders conjured the can-do 1940s, and sequins brought to mind the disco slink of the ’70s, which were also a reference for his lively Fall outing. This was a demonstrative collection, all the way down to the collectible studded Aran sweaters.
Suiting was its backbone. Tailoring is one of the common denominators of the season so far, but Kors seemed determined to make his uncommon. The mix of masculine and feminine was the point. He said he likes the “push-pull” of giving strength to a dress and adding softness to tailoring. Examples came in the form of bold shouldered, belted-waist frocks that peplumed above narrow skirts (they looked more like two pieces than one), and the collection’s many ruffled blazers. Some of the suits were just plain strong, like the terrific double-breasted white tuxedo with Swarovski-crystal pinstripes.
That’s not to say Kors skimped on dresses. Two of the most winning—leopard-spot crepe de chine and cadet blue crepe sablé with silver studding—were three quarter–sleeve, waisted, and fell fluidly to the knees. For the gals who are actually shopping for their holiday trips, he showed a flutter-sleeve polka-dotted one-piece far too pretty for the pool.
