On Efisio Marras’s mood board, images of a Matthew Barney movie in which a Japanese girl is expelling strands of pearls from her mouth were plastered alongside old pictures of the legendary Japanese Ama free-diving women. In a practice that dates back almost 2,000 years, the divers wore only a loin cloth, plunging without scuba gear or air tanks to retrieve pearls from the ocean’s depths. Today, the oldest surviving Ama diver is 80 years old, and apparently still in service. Talk about women’s strength.
An obvious marine inspiration ensued for Resort, mixed with the designer’s fascination for Japanese manga, while his street style penchant was softened into something more kawaii. The collection leaned toward the frilly and feminine, an odd choice for the young Marras, usually more keen on distancing himself from the family’s sentimental style. But he probably felt more confident, ready to confront the legacy his own way. “I went to my father’s archives, almost for the first time,” he said. “So the collection feels a bit more Marras than usual.”
Pearls were scattered on striped-cotton, tiered baby doll dresses, while koi fish were printed on ruched trapeze numbers, generously cut with interesting asymmetrical plays. Broderie anglaise was mixed with lace and PVC ruffles on white minidresses, and an edgier see-through tulle slip dress also got PVC treatment. Stripes were patchworked with checks in red, white, and blue; the color palette gave the collection a concise look. Stonewashed denim tie-dyed in a wavy motif had a soft texture, as did the floral-printed damask, which was dyed at low temperature to reduce its pattern to ombré graphics. Like the rest of the offering, it had a girly, dainty vibe. “My style is evolving,” mused Marras. “Maybe it’s me growing up, or maybe my girlfriends are asking for something more feminine. I have to make them happy.”
