Giambattista Valli was on the other end of the phone framing his Resort collection in everyday terms. “I love the idea that I can dress a woman for picking up her kids at school,” he said. He was deep into preparations for his haute couture show in five days—“I’m between pins and embroidery!”—but wanted to offer context for the clothes in the showroom.
Over the past few seasons, Valli has been testing his version of activewear without compromising the enchanting glamour for which he is best known. As befitting a Resort collection, the leisure-luxe swimsuits and caftans were back, now in even more ruffled, printed, and embroidered variations. A newer series of pajama-adjacent pieces—breezy ensembles, shirts, shorts, and even a dressing gown, all detailed with piping and a GBV monogram—were a clever extension of the category and will prove welcome for their off-duty ease.
But because it would make sense (hopefully) that women who wear his frothy dresses also need work attire, he has further developed grisaille suit jackets that, in their own way, were the highlight of this collection. “I can see Amal Clooney going to court,” he quipped. In the iconic gray menswear fabric, the styles were sharp and shapely rather than boxy, with floral embroideries an uplifting antidote to any corporate setting.
Indeed, flowers were just about everywhere in this lineup, even as metallic and beaded buds embroidered in the leather of the Flore bag. “Real women love flower dresses, garden party dresses,” he said. It’s funny to hear Valli referring to real women given how his clientele has historically been comprised of rare birds. Whether or not the H&M collaboration has something to do with it, the fairy-tale aspect remains intrinsic to his approach, and the couture show will reiterate as much. But here in this Resort realm, when you see a tiered tulle skirt, it is quite likely to be paired with a fancy sweatshirt.
One last point: New bejeweled zodiac minaudières prompted the question of Valli’s sign.“Actually, it’s my birthday tomorrow,” he revealed. Joyeux anniversaire, GBV! And needless to say, he’s a Cancer.
