Ermanno Daelli stayed true to his reliable style recipe for Resort: hyperfemininity spiced up with masculine elements, and bourgeois glamour seasoned with Made in Florence craftsmanship. There’s not a real urge for change, especially considering faithful customers like Queen Rania of Jordan. Last March on a state visit to meet French President Emmanuel Macron, she wore Scervino’s black eco-leather chemise with matching sunray-pleat midi skirt.
As usual, a play between masculine and feminine was the thread running through the collection, with Prince of Wales wools set against ruffles and lace, and striped poplin contrasting with python-printed leather. Daywear was designed with clear, unfussy lines, as in a series of easy dusters and belted city coats in bonded or washed wool, and tailored blazers worn with black stretch-leather leggings or pleated culottes. The designer definitely loves sparkle. Hand-knit cashmere sweaters were embroidered with crystals, while checkered wools were speckled with sequins.
For evening, a note of romance was highlighted in a billowy embroidered organza dress in candy pink, which was a recurring color alongside a delicate tone of primrose yellow. Black leather with metallic details and red tartan wool toughened up the offering with a slightly punkish vibe.
