Just two main seasons have passed since Carly Cushnie took the reins at Cushnie et Ochs and rebranded the label as Cushnie. Reflecting on her recent success, it feels as though the designer has many more eponymous collections under her belt. In a matter of a few months she has launched bridal, relaunched handbags, and partnered with Lee Body Optix on a capsule collection of denim.
Inspired by the contemporary artist Rana Begum and her installation “The Space Between,” Cushnie designed this Resort collection thinking about linear forms. Begum’s work focuses on repetitive patterns while applying elements of color and light, and it’s this expression of the natural shape, structure, and order of artwork and architecture that has always moved the needle on Cushnie’s design aesthetic, and continues to do so. Hanging on the racks, almost every piece of clothing looked as though it would mold to the body with ease (and any type of body, for that matter). A buttery brown suede dress with pleating at the bust was a definite highlight, as was the white, chunky ribbed-knit dress with inflated sleeves.
A minty lime green suit with sharp paneling at the chest punctuated Cushnie’s knack for tailoring. The floral embroideries inspired by Irving Penn photographs seen on several pieces in the collection were beautiful, but not necessarily as compelling as the sculptural details that Cushnie underscored elsewhere. Overall, it’s clear that her personal touch is only getting stronger.