Hillary Taymour has a close-knit pack of friends, most of whom are makers, healers, poets, musicians, activists, and artists. In the past, the burgeoning fashion designer has cast some of them in her runway shows and lookbook shoots, highlighting their creative gifts through her own chosen medium. It’s a big part of what makes Taymour’s Collina Strada label such an impactful one on the New York fashion scene right now. She builds community through her craft and makes the rest of us rethink what clothing can say about who we are and what we do day-to-day. With her Resort collection, her most varied and wide-ranging yet, Taymour pushes this thoughtful outlook on fashion even further through a collaboration with one of her oldest compadres.
Ten years ago, in the midst of kickstarting Collina Strada, Taymour went on Craigslist in search of an intern. Photographer Charlie Engman was the one who replied and, after he got the gig, the two became friends. He eventually started shooting Taymour’s lookbooks, this one included. Dubbed “Radical Transparency,” the designer’s Resort collection features collage prints of Engman’s work and that of his mother, Kathleen McCain Engman, who is his constant muse and the subject of his first book of photography, to be published next year. She also stars in the lookbook (along with a few of their other friends).
With sustainability at the forefront of Taymour’s work, the clothes are all made from dead-stock fabric and recycled materials, including some one-off items like sneakers, and underwear that is embellished with small charms and pins that the designer’s grandmother left to her after her passing. Almost every piece is printed with original motifs designed by Engman and Taymour using mashups of Engman’s work, one of which they dubbed “Sistine Tomato” for its psychedelic, romantic visualization of the vegetable. The silhouettes this season were quite impressive, especially the skirts and dresses designed with a paneled train at the side. The button-down top with shoulder pads was a highlight, as were the ’80s pastel tie-dye pieces that felt separate from the increasingly ubiquitous tie-dye trend that’s taking over fashion. Taymour also injected a bit of humor with her “grandma couch”–fabric puffer jacket, which is soft but slightly structured so that it can be turned on its side and carried like a suitcase by the top handle, which she fastened to the waist.
Playful as Taymour can get, this collection was a clear indicator that she’s evolving as a designer and Collina Strada is advancing as a brand. Engman is the ideal collaborator for her, not only because they understand each other’s points of view regarding clothes and art and the environment, but also because they’ve built a community together.