A recent trip to the Atelier Brâncuși at Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris left an impression on Christian Siriano. While taking in Romanian sculptor Constantin Brâncuși’s creations in the replica of his studio space Siriano began to think about Resort 2020 and the mood he wanted to evoke. “I wanted to use those gold and rust shades that feature in his work,” Siriano said at his Upper West Side headquarters. “That’s where a lot of the colors and shapes we used come from, even the silhouettes we did this season are sculptural.”
The warm tones and dresses with dramatic curvature called to mind Brâncuși’s style, but Siriano didn’t waste time on overt references. Save for a crinkled goddess dress that nodded to the artist’s love of Roman mythology and gold eyelet looks that mimicked some of his rough-hewn textures, the collection was rooted in the moment. Women want versatile separates with a touch of mirth, and Siriano gave them just that. French painter Gee-Gee Collins received a shout out, her abstract portraits provided the inspiration for a face print that made its way onto long-sleeved crop tops and double-breasted blazers with portrait collars.
The museum moment allowed for the introduction of new fabrications like ombre pleated silk and a metallic jersey knit that clung to models’ bodies and revised versions of the outré evening silhouettes Siriano specializes in. There were still ballgowns—including a glittering white number that verged into bridal territory—but many looks were broken into separates to give clients a range of styling options. Voluminous ruffled skirts were attached to corseted tops and paired with pants, while a navy overcoat accented with layers of tulle made for an arresting statement. Even the classic midi-dress received a playful update thanks to a watercolor print of beachgoers frolicking in their Speedos.
