If the Fall 2019 runway collections proved anything, it was that the idea of a pantsuit, at least one cut like a man’s, is tired. In its most powerful and purest form, a women’s suit doesn’t straddle the gender lines. It’s crafted to hug and accentuate and amplify a woman’s body, however curvy or skinny or tall or imperfectly, beautifully shaped she might be.
With Adeam, Hanako Maeda’s perspective revolves around practicality, even if her designs are elevated. For her, it’s not about playing to trends. This season she showcased her talents, crafting stylish, strong clothes for real, everyday women (plus Oprah, who just wore one of Maeda’s dresses to an event).
The Adeam Resort 2020 collection is based around a traditional Japanese woodblock art called kacho-ga. These prints depict soft, peaceful scenes of birds and flowers through serene colors like pastel peach and earthy green. Maeda personified the zen-like feeling one gets when viewing a kacho-ga through a lineup of clothes that were pretty and approachable but still disciplined as far as cut and silhouette are concerned. She achieved this through the asymmetrical long-sleeve peacoat and high-waisted bootleg pant, and through the double trench worn over a pressed ruffle dress. More playful tailoring was accented in a pair of patchwork jeans paired with a matching, off-the-shoulder denim corset top. Maeda incorporated beautiful freshwater pearl detailing onto her knitwear and tops, which gave another hint of kacho-ga-like juxtaposition between the natural and the handmade. Adeam continues to be a strong brand as far as technique goes. And with tailoring currently leading the fashion conversation, Maeda is speaking the language well.
