Tuomas Merikoski prefers not to be wedged into a single category. Which is why for Resort, he chose to focus on “beautiful chaos,” aka eclectic uniform dressing that mixes mediums. Various knits fuse on a single cardigan, for example, or classic front-pleat trousers might get the punk treatment.
“We’re living in chaotic times,” Merikoski pointed out during a showroom visit, explaining that his idea was to take the bourgeoisie, season it with a little anarchy, and use humble arte povera–type materials and treatments to create “a random glam.”
Extrapolating the signature Aalto wave into a stratified lava print was one of the most successful of these statements; it appeared in striking orange, blue, and yellow on one coat, and to more subtle effect in shades of soft yellow on other ensembles. Punk-inflected straps became button-as-you-will lavaliers on shirts. Merikoski even threw a tiger wave print into the mix; it and the logo-like graphic disc symbol appeared somewhat referential but will likely please his base nonetheless.
Another key development was the “tie-dye camouflage” treatment that washed over a billowing trench or a front-tie jacket. In a strong shoulder season, Merikoski placed the accent on both gentle slopes, as on an otherwise fitted white denim jacket, and peaks, jutting them out in V-shaped plackets on a black single-breasted number with a technical sheen.
The designer seems to feel most at home when he sticks with street-smart dressing: Denims are one of Aalto’s strong suits, and this season they come with contrasting stitches and in a beige and black iteration, either cropped or cut longer.
