Reem Acra is an eveningwear designer, which means most of her pieces follow a formula. They are meant to dazzle and look good in front of a camera. There is always glitz, there is always shine, and there is typically a large degree of volume. The method is failsafe, but it’s nice when she takes a risk, as she did this season. For Pre-Fall 2020, Acra veered into darker territory. In the past, the designer has opted for a jolting, bright palette, which always includes hefty use of embroidery and sparkly. This time, she titled her collection “Noir Mystique” and injected a layer of seduction into her offerings. While there were plenty of metallic graphic pieces, one of the most standout numbers was the most simple: A black blooming caftan that was covered in jagged stripes made from silver beaded embroidery. (It’s always a treat to see Acra’s skill in handiwork.)
Surprisingly, though Acra is known for her megawatt red carpet gowns, she introduced knitwear pieces here. On a rack was a slate grey knit sweater with a fat braid across the neckline and crochet dotted throughout. The sleeves had a cozy, well-tailored poof. Another piece was a deep blue velvet top in a sweatshirt silhouette with sequin-striped cuffs. “They [the client] want to have that casual evening, young attitude,” said Acra. “Evening is not all poofy dresses with bustiers and big fluffy skirts,” she added. “We feel that evening is better when you can wear it over and over again.” Acra’s customer-base will agree with that, and maybe wear some of these elevated knits in the daytime, too.