If trends are over, the arbitrary seasonal reference might be next. Nili Lotan has never been one to cherry-pick a different artist, film, or muse as her “inspiration”; in fact, you’re more likely to see the same people on her mood board season after season. Pre-fall’s featured Mick Jagger, Françoise Hardy, Jane Birkin—all familiar faces in the Lotan universe—notably dressed in their simplest, most casual looks. Button-downs and boot-cut jeans, crisp suits, blouses under sweaters; it mirrored the easy, yet polished stuff Lotan remembers wearing when she was a student in the late ’70s, long before “casual” translated to sweatpants and sneakers.
This collection was essentially a more grown-up, luxe reprisal of those classic, timeless items. She believes next summer’s “look” will involve a navy blazer, a striped T-shirt, and boot-cut jeans—efficient, yet chic. Maybe you’ll swap in a chambray button-down or ivory flares here and there, but the formula will stay the same. The ’70s spirit isn’t new for Lotan, of course, but this was a more stripped-back, feminine interpretation of the decade. Her evening propositions touched more on the “haute bourgeois” sensibility we saw on the fall and spring runways, particularly at Celine: ruffled chiffon blouses, leather knee-length skirts, relaxed pinstripe suits. As for the “feminine” thing, only her longtime customers will understand the significance of the floral tie-neck blouse. Years ago, Lotan would’ve never dreamed of using florals; they felt entirely too girly. This one was a small-scale wildflower print in warm neutrals, so it felt more earthy than straight-up pretty.
