That a poplin button-down and a crystal-embellished tulle dress can both be recognizably “Khaite” is pretty remarkable. Cate Holstein, who started her label quietly three years ago (mostly with jeans and sweaters), chalks it up to Khaite “being more about a feeling” than a single item or signature. You know a cashmere sweater is Khaite thanks to its plush texture and rounded sleeves; a silk blouse is obviously Khaite because of its deep cuffs and strong shoulders. That tulle dress is Khaite because it’s made of the finest tulle, and because it’s cut in a romantic, yet grown-up silhouette. Holstein doesn’t do logos or meme-able trends, but that hasn’t stopped the brand from going viral: We needn’t remind you of Katie Holmes’s cardigan and cashmere bra; meanwhile even Khaite’s most understated bags have become Insta-famous.
You could say Holstein knows what women want (and has the figures to back it up; she reported that the return customer rate on Khaite’s website is exceptionally high). For prefall, she tweaked some of her familiar hits—the Victorian blouses, the Western skirts, the knife-pleated skirts—and sprinkled in a touch of ’60s rock-and-roll glamour. She was thinking about her childhood in London as well as the city’s most stylish musicians, like Keith Richards and Brian Jones, who inspired the ruffled tuxedo blouses and flashy, burnished-gold brocade tailoring. An ivory shirtdress with flared cuffs and a cascade of frills touched on the reference without feeling at all literal. Holstein’s most devoted fans will appreciate how it’s styled here too: with dark tights and slingbacks.
That said, the designer felt her greatest departure was in the ultra-short minidresses and body-hugging ruched gowns. “I’ve always avoided using the word ‘sexy’ to describe the clothes,” she said. “I would call them ‘sensual,’ which sounded more modern, or maybe more feminist. But I really wanted to embrace the idea of sexy and what that means for our woman right now.” Suffice it to say it has nothing to do with the male gaze. Beyond the sheer blouses and minis, even the suits had a curvier, more womanly fit, with narrow, high-rise trousers and snug blazers. The sexiest look of all might have been the ivory pantsuit, shown with a black leather belt and nothing else. No shirt, no jewelry, no fuss.
