Giambattista Valli’s idea of daywear is tinged with his flair for a certain glamour; he surely appreciates practicality, yet his translation of the concept into everyday tropes has an unmistakably hyper-feminine flavor. Embroideries, embellishments, flirty silhouettes—chez Valli seduction is a 24/7 operation. “I think that for a woman being a feminist means not foregoing her femininity,” he stated with conviction.
For pre-fall he played with what he described as the “duality of women’s nature;” the collection’s look book was shot accordingly in two different locations, each one reflecting a contrasting mood. A more introspective, intimate, black-and-white atmosphere was the background for daywear. Little tweed jackets, ’70s flared denims, and embroidered hoodies were combined in svelte silhouettes. A piumino got the Valli treatment, transformed quite luxuriously into a padded jacket in wool bouclé with a fake fur collar, and a tailored pantsuit was given a coquettish twist with a pussy-bow blouse in light chiffon. A sporty touch was perceived here and there, but, as the designer pointed out, “young girls today have sort of ‘digested’ sportswear, which has become a wardrobe basic. So now they’re looking for special, exciting pieces instead.” Obviously his collection provides this in spades.
The second half of the story was shot in a fabulous apartment, lavished with lacquered chinoiserie screens—“a precious box,” as the designer described it. It was the perfect backdrop for the luxurious Valli universe, one that most of his clients actually inhabit. “I give them dresses to live happy times,” he said. These included ethereal bohemian dresses in layered floral chiffon, impactful ruched evening gowns in red organza, and sequined numbers in nude embroidered tulle.
“Dressing for a woman should be an introspective pleasure, an expression of her refinement of spirit,” Valli summed up. “The right clothes give you a confident posture.” Right. Seductive working woman by day, aristocratic temptress by night. If only women’s dualities were that simple.
