To come up with the profusion of new prints she releases every season, Francesca Ruffini must be a restless sleeper, if not a no-sleeper at all. Researching and envisioning the extravagant motifs she’s become known for is her passion, though. She probably doesn’t look at the clock during the long hours spent delving into archives and libraries.
While staying true to her look of sophisticated loungewear-turned-daywear (and eveningwear), Ruffini tries to find new ways to subtly evolve her propositions. For pre-fall she added a series of great reversible wrap coats, made in a thick, soft wool bouclé: “They’re sort of elongated men’s dressing gowns,” she said. “I always start with my beloved pajama shape and then I stretch it and morph it into something different, a bit unexpected.” Ruffini’s versatile way of dressing can be adapted not only to different occasions, but also to diverse body types and ages. A young woman can wear one of her pajama jackets as a sexy minidress, while a more mature customer could cozily wrap herself up in one of her comforting oversize belted coats. The only requirement is that they both be die-hard lovers of mood-boosting prints. This is not a brand for minimalists.
Ruffini also worked on new smaller-scale patterns: Cashmere curlicues and romantic William Morris–inspired florals blended with geometric motifs inspired by a carpet bought on a trip to Peru. A theatrical palette of red, black, and white gave drama and impact to the linear silhouettes and to long, feminine dresses. In addition, she introduced a series of shirts and pajamas made from a recycled silk yarn that she had dyed and loom-woven; it had a finish as smooth and soft as baby cashmere.
